As our ongoing summer excursions across Maine continue, we recently ventured south along Route 15 toward Deer Isle, eager to spend a day exploring some of the area’s short trails. We weren’t disappointed, beginning with the splendid Little Deer Isle bridge that gracefully spans Eggemoggin Reach.
An imposing structure with distinctive mint-green girders and cables and two immense support towers of the same striking hue, it took about a minute to cross the 2,505-foot narrow suspension bridge that first opened to traffic 84 years ago this summer. Turning into the island-side picnic area, two somewhat wobbly old piers offered exceptional views.
Continuing on Route 15 to Eggemoggin Road, we drove to the northwest tip of Little Deer Isle, dead-ending at a small landing and private road. A giant rock outcrop provided excellent beach seats to view the Pumpkin Island Lighthouse, some 1,000 feet across the channel on almost two acres, now privately owned.
Returning along Eggemoggin Road, Blastow Cove Road led to two small nature preserves, first Pine Hill then the Lisa Tolman Wotton, where we walked some of the latter’s almost two miles of trails. It’s a fairly easy-to-moderate hike with the trailhead leading through a short grassy area, inhabited by swarms of flies and mosquitoes that eagerly welcomed us.
From there, we crossed the causeway that connects Little Deer Isle to neighboring Deer Isle, taking North Deer Isle Road to reach 18-acre Lily Pond Park.
Although offering less than a mile of trails, it’s a pleasant spot to enjoy lunch overlooking the reflective pond.
After a snack, we were drawn to the nearby Turtle Gallery by several whimsical art displays surrounding its 19th-century sliding barn doors, with the works of Maine and national artists featured inside.
One of the most famous regional artists was of the folk-rock music variety. The late Dan Fogelberg scored several hit singles in the ’80s and split his time between homes in Colorado and Deer Isle. Curious how Fogelberg discovered the island, I contacted his widow and third wife, Jean.
“In 1978, Dan was returning from a European vacation with his first wife, Maggie, when she suggested they stop in Maine,” she told me. “She had been to a dance camp near Bar Harbor as a child and knew Dan would appreciate Maine’s rugged beauty.”
He did, and after a realtor showed him an old captain’s cottage overlooking Eggemoggin Reach, Fogelberg bought it. The singer died in 2007, and Jean, who still lives on the island, maintains his website and is a successful artist and photographer with works in galleries across the country.
Next, we proceeded to Settlement Quarry Preserve near Stonington with about 1 1/2 miles of trails. A short quarter-mile walk up a slight incline led to an old granite quarry, now a massive wasteland of remnant rock. Maine granite was excavated from numerous quarries and used across the U.S. as a construction material due to its color, beauty and strength. An overlook area provided a panoramic view of Webb Cove and offshore islands.
Our final hike took us to Shore Acres Preserve on the southeast corner of the island. The main trail loop runs a fairly easy 1 1/2 miles by Greenlaw Cove and offers excellent views of the water. Exposed roots along the path made some areas uneven and recent rain produced a few slippery moments where I found myself unceremoniously in a seated position, but the moisture also gave rise to colorful mushrooms.
One reddish-capped variety with a cream stem stood out. Not being a mushroom expert, I (later) showed the photo to my University of Maine colleague, Dr. Seanna Annis, director of the School of Biology and Ecology, also a mycology (fungi) expert.
“It is a russula but there are lots of red-topped, white-bottomed russulas and they are very difficult to [identify] without a microscope and chemical tests,” Seanna told me. “They are very common in Maine.”
She also emphasized checking with an expert before eating wild mushrooms because they can induce symptoms ranging from minor gastric upset to death. I’ll stick to cultivated portobellos.
Those with a sweet tooth would appreciate our final stop before heading home: Nervous Nellie’s Jams and Jellies, located several miles down Sunshine Road. The store boasts an impressive selection of mostly handmade Maine goods and products. Visitors are also free to roam the vast property and explore the eclectic rustic sculpture village — an artistic wonderland that added a fascinating conclusion to our memorable Deer Isle trip.
Nick Thomas teaches at Auburn University at Montgomery in Alabama and has written features, columns and interviews for numerous publications. He is visiting the University of Maine this summer and traveling the state with his wife, Debby.
