Two Bush Island is the most distant island in the Muscle Ridge archipelago. Located about four miles from Spruce Head, it’s home to historic Two Bush Island Light.
The lighthouse, built in 1897, is situated near the heavily trafficked southwestern entrance to Penobscot Bay. Typical of Maine lighthouses, it has a rich history of hazardous ocean rescues and keepers surviving harsh winter storms.
The lighthouse was automated in 1964 and keepers were discontinued. In a seemingly unlikely occurrence, the keeper’s house was leveled by the Army Green Berets during a demolition exercise in 1970.
Only visible by boat or from the air, the lighthouse continues to be an important navigation aid. The 42-foot light tower now stands alone on the rugged and otherwise barren Two Bush Island and is owned by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. The two bushes for which it was named have long since vanished.
Each summer, I try to organize a Penobscot Paddle & Chowder Society sea kayak trip to Muscle Ridge. About 15 years ago, I had the good fortune to visit Two Bush Island during one of those trips. Subsequently, the remote island has been an elusive destination. Fog, rough seas and hazardous landings have prevented our return.
Recently, I endeavored to organize a Muscle Ridge kayak trip with Two Bush Island the primary objective. A small hand-carry landing adjacent to Spruce Head Island Bridge is the closest launch site for a paddle to the distant atoll.
Access and egress at the landing can be a muddy misadventure at low tide, so planning is important. Fortuitously, I identified a favorable forecast on a day when low tide was at 11:30 a.m. Departing mid-morning and returning mid-afternoon would work perfectly.
Three paddling friends agreed to join me. The weather forecast was superb, calling for light winds, partly sunny skies and warm temperatures.
However, the Maine coastal waters forecast was mixed. Advantageous two-foot seas were predicted, but patchy fog was anticipated in the morning. Since visibility was expected to be more than a mile, we decided to assess the situation when we arrived.
Conditions were clear when we met in Spruce Head. However, we could see fog in the distance. Equipped with maps, compasses and a GPS, we felt adequately prepared to kayak around Spruce Head Island and traverse Muscle Ridge Channel to the nearest island in the archipelago, Graffam Island. Whether circumstances would permit continuing to Two Bush Island was uncertain.
Our paddle along the north side of Spruce Head Island was uneventful. At the eastern end, we could see Graffam Island partially enveloped in fog. After collectively confirming the correct compass bearing for Graffam, we embarked on the busy 1.5-mile crossing. Relative tranquility was experienced during our traverse. By the time we arrived at Graffam, the fog had dissipated to haze.
Turning at the southern terminus of Graffam, Crow Island was visible about a mile to the southeast. Situated to the east of Crow, there was no sign of Two Bush Island or the lighthouse.
Cruising along the southern periphery of the archipelago, we proceeded to the northern perimeter of Crow. Rounding the rugged shoreline, first the lighthouse, then the entire island, could be seen through the haze. Reaching Two Bush Island seemed likely. Landing, however, was still uncertain.
We experienced a welcome calm during our crossing to Two Bush Island. Landing on the western end was too hazardous. However, we found a rocky beach on the extreme eastern terminus where we successfully disembarked. We then hiked through tall grass to the lighthouse.
The weathered old lighthouse was a delight to visit. The prominent location on Two Bush Island provided outstanding views of the surrounding area.
After completing our exploration of Two Bush Island, we paddled north to a sandy beach on Bar Island. We found an ideal place for lunch under a shaded location at the head of the beach.
From Bar, we navigated around the northern end of Graffam Island and entered Muscle Ridge Channel. Once past tiny Hurricane Island, we could make out distinct Target Rock amid the cliffs on Spruce Head Island.
That was our bearing as we negotiated through strong tidal currents and completed the traverse. The incoming tide had covered most of the mud when we returned to Spruce Head Landing concluding one of the most remarkable voyages on the Maine coast.
Read about eight more exciting sea kayak escapades in my book, “Maine Al Fresco: The Fifty Finest Outdoor Adventures in Maine.”
