PORTLAND, Maine — Greater Portland’s food scene never stops changing. There are plenty of openings, closings and coming attractions to talk about even during the lazy, dog days of summer.
This summer’s restaurant news reads a little like a storybook. In Portland, a stone-and-stained-glass castle has closed its gates for good. Just up the road in Cumberland, an outdoorsy eatery opened on the edge of an idyllic, preserved forest. Meanwhile, a bad-but-delicious dream descended on the city’s East End.
Farewell to Queenie’s Castle
Run by Victoria “Queenie” Thayer for just more than a year, this cafe and bar was housed in the iconic Deering Oaks Castle. Thayer decided to close up shop two weeks ago, citing problems with folks living in a nearby cluster of tents.
“This is just crazy that this is going on in our city. And it’s just time to throw in the towel,” she told CBS 13. “They stole my mop. I don’t know why. They use my mop bucket as their bathroom, if they even use the bucket. Sometimes they just go wherever.”
Thayer also told the television station that her lease for the city-owned castle doesn’t run out until November but that Portland officials were letting her out of it.
Before it was Queenie’s Castle, the restaurant Tiqua vacated the building at the start of the pandemic, early in the 2020 summer season. Prior to that, the building had a long string of food-service vendors, going back to its construction in 1894.
Wandering up to Cumberland
The long-awaited Wander at LongWoods opened last Wednesday, off Route 9 in Cumberland. The farm-to-table restaurant is an integral part of Longwoods Preserve, a protected forest which will eventually include walking trails and a sculpture garden. The preserve also sports a farm supplying produce and other edible yummies for the restaurant.
The airy eatery, open Wednesday through Sunday, from 4 until 9 p.m., can accommodate close to 100 customers. It includes a large, outdoor seating area as well.
LongWoods’ menu includes wood-fired pizza, seared Maine halibut, confit roasted chicken and seasonal succotash dishes. The menu states chefs make every effort to source ingredients from no more than 50 miles away.
According to the Portland Food Map, Mike Allen is LongWoods’ executive chef and Rich Maggi is the restaurant’s chef de cuisine. Molly and Jordan McDuffie are the resident farmers, while Joe Atwood is the overall general manager.
Welcome to your Night Mares
A new bar, going by the dark, horsey name of Night Mares, opened on Sunday inside the old Nissen Bakery Building at the foot of Portland’s Munjoy Hill. The joint’s actual address is around the back, at 44 Romasco Lane.
According to the Portland Food Map, Night Mares occupies the same space as a new cafe coming later this year. That business, called Prairie Baking Company, will be owned by Elizabeth Rzoska, one of the co-founders of the new bar.
The Night Mare-ish bar menu includes plenty of house cocktails, beer and wine. In perhaps a nod to its future bakery neighbor, the menu also features some sweet and savory snacks.
Cheese and beet tartines are going for $13 while spicy nuts will set you back $6.
In also tasty news
Ore Nell’s North, a new Biddeford arm of Kittery’s Ore Nell’s BBQ, is now open for business at 42 Franklin St. The location is just across the parking lot from the famous Palace Diner. Ore Nell’s specializes in Texas-style barbecue. Chef Will Myska was raised in Houston and his menu includes brisket, ribs, pulled pork and even tofu.
Frozen treat purveyor Honeycone Ice Cream Social is under construction on Route 1 in Yarmouth. The venue’s ice cream will be organically produced. Both gluten-free and dairy-free options are expected to be available. Owners Joyce Chittick and Rick Faugno hope to have it up and running before the end of August.
A cafe and retail shop called Matcha Mood is taking shape at 654 Congress St. in Portland. The Portland Food Map states the company is the creation of sisters Sarochinee Tiparos, Veya Tiparos and Phuntira Tiparos, who hope to have it open by September.
Matcha is high-grade green tea, ground into powdered form, then whisked into hot water, forming a frothy drink. Preparing, presenting and sipping matcha is a meditative experience and the backbone of Japanese tea ceremonies.
“Get ready to embark on a delightful journey of authentic Japanese flavors,” states the Matcha Mood Instagram profile. “From our handcrafted matcha lattes to our delectable matcha ice cream, bakery treats, and beyond, we’re here to satisfy your matcha cravings like never before.”
The retail arm of the cafe is expected to sell tea and tea-making equipment.
