I felt like I was leaving autumn behind and heading into winter as I drove up a frozen dirt road to the Eagle Rock trailhead
Deep in the woods of the Moosehead Lake region, snow dusted the ground, disturbed only by the tracks of a vehicle that had passed before me. Perhaps it was another hiker, or more likely, a hunter.
I’d wanted to check out the 3.7-mile Eagle Rock Trail since it was built in 2014. And nearly a decade later, I was finally on my way.
Located on a hill that’s considered the far western tip of Big Moose Mountain, Eagle Rock is a dramatic outcropping that seems to rise up out of nowhere, reaching above an evergreen forest to provide a 360-degree view of the region.
The protrusion of exposed granite rests about 2,350 feet above sea level. To reach the top, you have to scramble up a steep slope of bare rock.
I was prepared for the majesty of the landmark because I had hiked an older trail to Eagle Rock in 2013. Measuring a little more than 1.5 miles, that trail was pretty much a straight shot up the steep north side of the hill.
The trail, built in 2014, approaches from the southeast, crosses a brook and visits an overlook on Raven Ledge along the way.
From topographical maps and trail reports, I knew that the way would be fairly gradual, without any ladders, ropes or rungs. So, I invited my dog, Juno, along for the adventure.
The trailhead is located in the state-owned Little Moose Public Lands, which covers more than 15,000 acres outside of Greenville. It features some impressive peaks and remote ponds.
To get there, you have to drive about 5 miles through the property on gravel roads, which aren’t plowed in the winter.
I had attempted to hike the trail in early December 2022, but the road was so icy that I was afraid my vehicle would slide into a ditch before I reached the trailhead. Instead, I settled for hiking a nearby trail to the top of Big Moose Mountain.
But in early November, I was lucky. While things were starting to freeze, the road was passable in my SUV.
About 3.5 miles down North Road, I turned right onto East Moore Bog Road and drove another 1.5 miles to the parking lot at the end.
I was the only person there, and there was no cell phone reception. But I had left a message with my mother about my plans, and I carried a satellite tracker, just in case.
While the trail begins in Little Moose Public Lands, it soon leaves the property, crossing onto land owned by Weyerhaeuser. This transition is marked with a sign.
The trail is open to the public and protected in perpetuity by a trails easement, and most of the surrounding property is a part of a 363,000-acre conservation easement.
We didn’t start hiking until late morning. I knew it was a fairly long trail, so I set a turn-around time — a specific time when I would return to the trailhead, even if I didn’t reach my destination.
While I carried a headlamp, I didn’t want to be hiking in the dark on a trail that was new to me.
The trail was well-maintained and marked with blue blazes. It had a few bog bridges and rock staircases, and threaded through a beautiful forest that began as mostly hardwood and transitioned into evergreens.
The beginning was a gentle climb, then the trail dipped down and back up, down and up. About 2.7 miles into the hike, a 375-foot side trail traveled to an overlook on Raven Ledge, which was spectacular, but no match for Eagle Rock.
It was just one more mile to Eagle Rock. I checked the time and picked up the pace, heading downhill, then back up, down and up.
I reached the remarkable landmark with half an hour to spare before my turnaround time.
The rock was mostly bare, though with snow-filled cracks, it looked like a jigsaw puzzle. Worried about slipping, I threw on some ice cleats and clambered to the top, where a frigid wind whipped over the exposed bedrock.
Juno wandered the slanted rock like a mountain goat and seemed determined to stand at the very edge of every drop-off. I was glad to have her on leash.
Though a thick layer of clouds hung overhead, the view over snow-dusted spruce trees was spectacular.
I could identify several landmarks, including Moosehead Lake and the many mountains beyond it. The wind soon drove us back into the arms of the forest, where dense tree boughs protected us from the cold.
On the way back to the trailhead, a ruffed grouse burst out of the underbrush and nearly gave me a heart attack.
But that wasn’t the biggest surprise of the day.
Just a few minutes later, I heard what could only be a large animal crashing through the forest ahead of us.
Through the trees, I watched a large moose run along the banks of a brook, followed by a smaller moose. I’m guessing it was a cow and her spring calf. But boy could they fly. I wouldn’t have wanted to be their way.
Then, on the drive out of the property, I came across another cow-calf pair. A couple of hunters parked in a truck pointed them out to me, standing in the woods just beside the road.
I’ve seen a lot of moose while exploring Maine, but four moose in one day? That’s a record for me.
Overall, I’d say it was the perfect day. We hiked 7.4 miles, enjoyed early snow, spotted some of Maine’s most iconic wildlife and grabbed some pizza at Jamieson’s in Greenville on the way home.
