My friend, Brent Elwell, is a frequent skier in the Carrabassett Valley region and more familiar with the trails in that area than anyone I know. While we were skiing together at Rangeley Lakes Trails Center recently, we began talking about Maine Huts and Trails.
The conversation evolved into a decision to ski to Poplar Hut, one of four lodges in the 80-mile trail system. Our companion, Eggman DeCoster, made it a threesome.
The Maine Huts and Trails network begins at Stratton Brook Trailhead in Stratton and weaves through the mountains and along rivers, lakes and streams in a remote wilderness area to West Forks.
The trails between Stratton Brook Trailhead and Flagstaff Hut are usually groomed, but the status of grooming should be confirmed prior to planning a trip.
The closest access point to Poplar Hut is Airport Trailhead on Route 27 in Carrabassett Valley. According to the Maine Huts and Trails Map, the distance is 3.3 miles and the elevation gain is 431 feet.
This is also the trailhead for the Narrow Gauge Pathway and other destinations in the trail system.
The three of us met at the trailhead on a gray, seasonably cool and breezy day. At Brent’s recommendation, we left our touring skis behind and brought backcountry Nordic skis with edges instead.
All of us carried small packs with additional layers of clothing, water, snacks and a lightweight parka. Brent had the foresight to include a first aid kit, glide wax and climbing skins — strips of material that go on the underside of the skis to provide traction for uphill climbs.
We began our trek crossing an open field north of the airfield with a partial view of cloud-enshrouded Little Bigelow Mountain in the distance. After traversing a bridge over the Carrabassett River, the short connector route joined Narrow Gauge Pathway and Maine Hut Trail.
At the junction, we met two skiers who had spent the night at Poplar Hut. A cheerful discussion about trail conditions, the benefits and deficiencies of different types of skis and previous ski trips followed.
They had welcome news to report; the trail to Poplar Hut was groomed and in good condition.
Initially, the narrow path traveled through gentle rolling hills in a predominantly conifer forest. As we progressed, more skiers and snowshoers were met returning from the hut. Nearing Poplar Stream, we plunged down a precipitous hill.
Eggman was unable to hold a snowplow when negotiating an abrupt right turn at the bottom and crashed into a snowbank. That was our only mishap of the day, but not the first at that location because there were several telltale sitzmarks nearby.
Nothing hurt but his pride, we kept skiing.
After crossing the bridge over Poplar Stream, we began climbing more steadily along the south side of the stream. When the gradient steepened, we stopped to add climbing skins to our skis. The skins eliminated the need to use the tiring herringbone technique and facilitated a much easier ascent.
Following the long climb, the trail leveled off before it arrived at Poplar Hut. The impressive structure was nestled in a conifer forest and cloaked in snow this time of year.
Although the hut’s primary focus is to provide overnight lodging for guests, day visitors were welcome. We stacked our skis and poles, removed our boots in the entryway and entered the warm spacious communal area.
The staff was very welcoming and we enjoyed hot drinks and snacks while relaxing next to a toasty woodstove. Spirited conversations with lodging guests were part of the entertaining experience. I decided to suggest an overnight hut excursion to my wife, Nancy.
After a pleasurable visit, we added glide wax to our skis and began our return. Soon after departing, we met a group of about 20 skiers on their way to the hut.
The choice to use backcountry skis was a good one because they were invaluable during our steep serpentine descent. The edges assisted with maintaining ski control throughout our rollicking ride down to Poplar Stream Bridge.
While completing the remainder of our most excellent trek, we met more skiers and snowshoers advancing to the hut. I see a visit to Stratton Brook Hut in my future.
My book, “Maine Al Fresco: The Fifty Finest Outdoor Adventures in Maine” narrates three more ski excursions around the state and several winter expeditions into the huts in Baxter State Park.
